“To feel alone in a free, merciless world with only one’s strength to rely on; engaged in intimate dialogue with the deepest and most mysterious forces of one’s being; awakened to pure, harsh dimensions that almost enable us to partake of that same transcendence over and indifference toward the human domain that in the majestic and shining peaks seem to find their best symbolic representation.”

Julius Evola

Yes, it was the Summer holidays and my annual few days of sanity away from work and the family. Little did I know that I’d return with a new spirit of hope! My trip into the “merciless world” began in Carlisle on the Hadrian’s Wall path.

The Red Castle of Carlisle

“In the struggle against mountain heights, action is finally free from all machines, and from everything that detracts from man’s direct and absolute relationship with things.”

Not quite! The train came into Carlisle but the trail began to the west of the city. It being me, as usual I began walking in totally the wrong direction i.e. West to the sea and the start of the wall.

What could go wrong? See you tomorrow…
Heading West from Carlisle
Well at least the locals are friendly!
Beaumont church built on an older motte and Bailey fort
Cumberland sausages at pub in Beaumont: oh how those Romans would have liked this!
Day two :Edward 1’s statue: hammer of the Scots. Burgh- by- Sands
Those Romans knew how to build roads…erm…straight. Defences to left of road.
For those who have been paying attention, the start of the walk in Bowness
I felt such an imposter when so many new walkers were congratulating me on completing the trail!
Bowness has a lovely small museum dedicated to the wall and its history
Midday on day two and it was a bus back to Carlisle: genius!
To the East of Carlisle I felt I was finally leaving civilisation: the borderlands!

“Up close to the sky and to crevasses-among the still and silent greatness of the peaks; in the impetuous raging winds and snowstorms; among the dazzling brightness of glaciers; or among the fierce, hopeless verticality of rock faces-it is possible to reawaken (through what may at fIrst appear to be the mere employment of the body) the symbol of overcoming, a truly spiritual and virile light, and make contact with primordial forces locked within the body’s limbs.”

Now that’s more like it: the first turrets appear: Lea hill
I was so impressed by this! Across a river and spanning a valley
Gilsland farm: such a great welcome from an ex- soldier who can even chat more than me!
Tea in the Barn; talk about glamping!
My host even provided a chair to better admire the sunset
Help needed with my boots!
Birdoswald to Steel Rigg; my pack was light and I was really enjoying the trail
Here those crafty Romans had brought geology to aid their defence: wall on the sill in distance
Happened upon this culvert: for all you Roman sewage experts
My scale model of Highshield Crags
Oh to be a Roman on this wall…
This was in 2023, just weeks before some human garbage cut down the famous Sycamore of Sycamore Gap fame ( Robin Hood fans look away now!)
Days four and five were literally mind blowing; loved every minute of the central section

“In this way the climber’s struggle will be more than physical and the successful climb, may come to represent the achievement of something that is no longer merely human. In ancient mythologies the mountain peaks were regarded as the seats of the gods; this is myth, but it is also the allegorical expression of a real belief that may always come alive again sub specie interioritatis.”

Well old Julius must have had something there because on approaching Brocolitia and the temple of Mithras….

This happened….

It got very dark and windy ( that’s not it!)
I thought I’d challenge the heavens in the storm…
Mithras! The sun god I called out???? Hardly??? If you are a God then….
And then…..
I kid you not, the wind dropped, the Sun came out and a rainbow appeared!!!!!

Anything that happened after that was an anticlimax! Should I take up a new religion? Are there any true believers left. Mithras was the Roman soldiers’ favourite of course. How does one worship a Sun God in rainy old Britain???? I left there very un- nerved.

Last two days and the trail crosses the battlefield of the Heavenfield. The white cross still marks the victory of Christianity over the Heathen ( of which after yesterday I must be counted!)
One more camp behind the Robin’s Hood Inn and my journey was at an end!
How fitting!
Awake the inner Roman in you!

Well I’d done it! The walk was a memorable experience and I would recommend it to anyone! You do need to be well prepared for the weather. I went, perhaps fittingly, in August and wind and rain can be expected! The wall is a sublime piece of living history. Others can argue about whether it was porous or a barrier, all I can say is that it makes one feel very humble that the Ancients could achieve so much lasting accomplishments. Maybe Mithras was helping them too?

MB. August 2023

5 responses to “Summer Madness?”

  1. SUMMER – YES! mADNESS – N0! Completed the Hadrians walk myself back in 97.

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    1. Ah mate, I’d do it again tomorrow!!! There is something magical about the place. I’m planning to spend my retirement trail walking: did you recognise any of the places from 97???? S

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  2. Hadrian’s Wall is a superb place, I have been there on several occasions and as wall as the wall the various Forts and museums add to the total experience. Just to visit one, Vindolanda takes a day to explore the Fort and Vicus then you add the reproduction of the various stages of the fort’s wall. Onto the museum where the various finds and are superly displayed and interpreted; event to the translation of requests for wolly socks and underpants. I also enjoyed the civilian builidings that they have reproduced. In itself is a total package. You still have all the other sites; I hope you didn’t fall into the toilets at Housteads where the wooden seats have not survived over the years being active, my Gangs of Rome version was modelled on them and dedicated to the God Crepitus, as you are aware I am very serious with my devotions to him. Keep up the exploring and good reports.

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    1. I did go to Housesteads: clambering over the walls to get in through the back. Ten out of ten for me;

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      1. I wouldn’t expect less.

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